Countdown To LFW: Sally Costin-Brown
“We at the brand are dipping a toe in to the much talked about 'Mass Customisation' manufacturing shift increasingly being put in to practice across all industries (including fashion), whilst trying very much to remain a premium 'designer' brand.”
Costin is a British luxury fashion label established in 2016, available exclusively online. Sally Costin-Brown combines tailoring with luxurious, natural fabrics to create custom-made fashion. Each item is made to order in the UK which both eliminates waste and ensures the employment of local seamstresses and craftsmen.
How would you describe your design aesthetic in 3 words?
Timeless, Versatile, Conscious
What is your creative process when designing?
As someone who leads a very busy lifestyle, the idea of an uncomplicated, easy wearing outfit is the inspiration behind any new designs. The first steps when designing any piece are actually a series of questions I would ask myself, such as ‘when/where could people wear this’, ‘how easy would it be to throw on’, ‘could it be dressed it up or down’, and finally ‘what fabrics would take the item from a hardworking wardrobe staple to something really very special’. The brand has a timeless, clean aesthetic, focusing on clean lines and a tailored fit thus these factors along with wearability are the core principals behind all my designs. The potential design will go through many samples and wear-tests before the patterns are finalised for the finished garments.
What has been your favourite project/collection so far?
Being a very young company, I only have our first collection to go on, and it has been a truly wonderful experience designing, then creating garments I have always longed for yet never been able to find, with the knowledge that there have been no corners cut, and, being made-to-order, with very little wastage. The challenge of creating a platform where customers can change fundamental elements of a garment, and the ability to view those changes both photo-realistically and immediately has been an incredibly tough process, and doing it on a start-up budget has felt nigh- on impossible at times. However, the journey has been so educational and fulfilling that it certainly has to be a highlight project in regards to the collection so far.
How do you avoid getting stuck creatively?
I find the key is to become a sponge to everything around you, to notice as much as you can. I love to travel, and while doing so, am constantly inspired by the way women from other countries dress. For example, our silk jersey tops were born out of a trip to Paris where I noticed many women wore very plain outfits consisting of just a few simple garments, yet they looked so elegant and expensive due to the obvious quality of the fabrics. Classic books and films from the 50’s and 60’s are also a huge source of inspiration whenever I feel a little stuck creatively.
Who would be your dream client?
There are too many to mention! I love the simple elegance of the Royals, and the edgy style of Kate Moss. Our garments are classic enough to suit a huge variety of characters.
What do you think the fashion industry could do to improve and decrease waste?
Fast fashion is a huge factor in the enormous amount of wastage created by the fashion industry each year. Slowing fashion down by not being so trend-led is an obvious yet unrealistic method of improvement. However, we now live in a customisable world. The increasingly popular concept of ‘Mass Customisation’ led by consumer desire for items suited to individual tastes requires both manufacturing and supply-chain processes to be, in contrast to most manufacturing methods practiced today, incredibly lean and agile. Garments/accessories are not made until they have been ordered, thus eliminating the need to forecast, which often results in tonnes of unsellable stock each season. A ‘Pull’ system (as opposed to the ‘push’ system we are so used to in the fashion industry) that features a ‘made-to- order’ business model creates less waste as we only produce when needed. An added bonus of this manufacturing method is the need to employ local craftsmen in order to maintain optimal control, and for the shortest, least expensive lead times. For those who do mass manufacture, I would hope the companies would implement initiatives such as those seen at H&M where they actively reduce, reuse and recycle wherever possible.
You can check out Sally's brand, exclusively available online, right here!